Kora is the word in our name, and the first question people ask at the rail. In Indian textile usage kora means raw or unbleached: cloth as it comes off the loom, before anyone bleaches, dyes or finishes it. The trade calls the same thing greige goods. It is the most honest state a cloth can be in, and the one that behaves most differently from what most people are used to wearing.
This guide explains what kora cotton is, why it feels the way it does on day one and on day thirty, how much it shrinks, how to wash it, and how it compares with bleached cotton, khadi and kala cotton. Figures are sourced where they exist; where we are reporting what we see on our own cloth, we say so.
- Kora (greige) cotton is cloth taken straight from the loom without bleaching, dyeing or finishing. It keeps the fibre's natural colour, oils and a little of its stiffness.
- It arrives crisp and softens with every wash, because washing removes the natural waxes and loom sizing. That softening is the point, not a flaw.
- Expect shrinkage on the first wash. Linen typically loses about 4 per cent and up to 10 per cent in poor conditions, most of it the first time; unbleached cotton behaves similarly, which is why we cut with allowance.
- Wash cold or lukewarm (30C at most), mild detergent, no bleach and no enzyme detergents, separate for the first washes, line dry in shade, iron on medium with steam.
- Kora is not khadi (hand-spun and hand-woven) and not kala cotton (an indigenous Kutch cotton); it describes the finish of the cloth, not how it was made or which plant it came from.
The word, and the trade term behind it
Kora is Hindi for raw, plain or unbleached, and in textiles it is used for cloth and yarn that have not been processed after weaving. A kora sari is an unbleached sari; kora cotton is unbleached cotton cloth. The international trade term is greige (pronounced grey), and greige goods are defined as woven or knitted fabric that has not been bleached or dyed. Indian suppliers describe it the same way: an unfinished textile straight from the loom, retaining its natural colour, oils and impurities, usually processed further before use.
"Usually processed further" is the key phrase. Most cotton you have worn was bleached white and then dyed, or bleached and left white. Kora skips both. What you get is the colour of the fibre itself, an oatmeal or bone shade that varies from bale to bale, and a cloth that still has a little of the field in it.
Why it feels stiff, and then does not
Raw cotton fibre carries natural waxes and pectins, and most loom cloth carries a starch sizing applied to the warp so it survives weaving. Bleaching and finishing strip those out at the mill. Kora keeps them, which is why a new kora shirt feels crisp and a little papery. Every wash removes a bit more, and the cloth softens toward the hand of old muslin. One importer of unbleached Indian cotton describes it exactly this way: washing removes the finishes and lets the fibres relax.
On our rail this is the single thing people notice when they come back for a second piece: the first one, three months in, is softer than anything new. We tell everyone at the exhibition that the first wash is part of the making.
How much it shrinks
Unfinished cloth has not been pre-shrunk, so it will move on the first wash. The best published figures are for linen: about 4 per cent typically, up to 10 per cent in poor conditions, with most of the shrinkage happening in the first wash cycle, driven by high temperatures, sudden thermal changes and heat in drying. Unbleached cotton behaves in the same way, and in our experience lands in the same range. That is why we cut with allowance and why most of our shapes are forgiving: a boxy shirt that loses a centimetre at the hem is still a boxy shirt.
If you want to control it yourself, wash the piece once, cold and gentle, before you wear it. Some sellers recommend exactly that for all natural cloth. Do not try to pre-shrink kora with a hot wash; you will get the shrinkage, but you will also get a harsher cloth and a duller colour.
How to wash and care for it
The advice for unbleached cotton is the advice for linen, and the sources agree on it. Cold or lukewarm water, 30C at most, on a gentle cycle or by hand. A mild liquid detergent; no bleach, which will take the natural colour out, and no enzyme detergents, which are too aggressive for natural fibres. Wash the first few times separately, because natural tones can shed a little colour. Line dry in shade or dry flat; hangers can dent wet cloth and sun will fade it. If you must tumble, use low heat. Iron on medium with steam, or steam only for ruffles and cutwork.
For our embroidered and cutwork pieces we add one rule: wash in a mesh bag and dry flat, so the thread is not pulled and the holes do not catch.
Kora, khadi, kala cotton, mul: the words people mix up
Kora describes the finish: unbleached, undyed, unfinished. Any cotton can be kora.
Khadi describes the making: hand-spun yarn, hand-woven cloth. Khadi can be kora (unbleached) or bleached or dyed.
Kala cotton describes the plant: an indigenous, drought-resistant, short-staple cotton from Kutch that was revived by a Bhuj-based craft organisation working with labels willing to design around a coarse fibre. Kala cotton cloth is often sold kora, because its natural colour is part of the appeal.
Mul describes the weave and weight: a fine, soft, loosely woven cotton. Mul is almost always bleached, which is why it is white and soft from the first day.
So a piece can be kora khadi, kora kala cotton or kora mill cotton, and the care is the same for all three.
Why we use it
Three reasons. The colour is honest: nothing has been added, so the oatmeal shade is the cotton's own and it sits with every other colour we put next to it. The cloth improves: a piece bought at our first exhibition in October 2025 is better now than it was then. And it keeps us disciplined: you cannot hide a poor cut or a loose stitch on cloth this plain, which is why the shapes are the work.
Every piece on the rail in unbleached kora cotton or linen comes with the care note above. If you are unsure about the first wash, write to us and we will walk you through it.
Kora cotton at a glance
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| What does kora mean? | Unbleached, raw, unfinished; the trade term is greige |
| What colour is it? | The fibre's own: oatmeal to bone, varying by bale |
| Why is it stiff when new? | Natural waxes and loom sizing are still in the cloth |
| Does it soften? | Yes, with every wash; that is the point |
| How much does it shrink? | Roughly 4 per cent, up to 10 in poor conditions, mostly in the first wash (linen figures; cotton similar) |
| How do I wash it? | Cold or lukewarm, mild detergent, no bleach, separate at first, line dry in shade |
| Is it the same as khadi? | No; khadi is hand-spun and hand-woven and may or may not be kora |
Questions people ask
What is kora cotton?
Cotton cloth taken straight from the loom without bleaching, dyeing or finishing. Kora means raw or unbleached in Indian textile usage; the trade term is greige. It keeps the fibre's natural oatmeal colour and softens with washing.
Does kora cotton shrink?
Yes, on the first wash, because it has not been pre-shrunk at a mill. Published figures for linen are about 4 per cent typically and up to 10 per cent in poor conditions, mostly in the first wash; unbleached cotton behaves similarly. Wash it cold and gentle the first time, and buy shapes with ease.
How do you wash unbleached cotton?
Cold or lukewarm water, mild detergent, no bleach or enzyme detergents, separately for the first few washes, then line dry in shade or flat. Iron on medium with steam. Embroidered and cutwork pieces go in a mesh bag.
What is the difference between kora and khadi?
Kora is a finish: unbleached and undyed. Khadi is a making method: hand-spun yarn, hand-woven cloth. Khadi can be kora or bleached or dyed, and kora cloth can be khadi or mill-made.
Why does unbleached cotton feel stiff at first?
Because the natural waxes of the fibre and the starch sizing from the loom are still in it. Bleaching and finishing remove them at a mill; with kora, your first few washes do the job, and the cloth ends softer than finished cotton.
Related guides
Sources
- Wikipedia, Greige goods: en.wikipedia.org
- Texchange Global, Overview: woven greige fabric: blogs.texchangeglobal.com
- Fibre2Fashion, greige cotton fabric supplier descriptions (unfinished, from the loom, natural colour and oils retained): fibre2fashion.com
- Merchant & Mills, Unbleached washed muslin, natural Indian cotton (washing removes finishes, fibres relax): merchantandmills.com
- Parachute, Does linen shrink? (about 4 per cent, up to 10, first wash): parachutehome.com
- Coulange 1918, How to maintain linen: wash, dry and iron without damaging it (temperature, thermal shock, drying heat): coulange1918.com
- Eileen Fisher, How to care for linen and cotton: eileenfisher.com
- Fabrics-Store, Linen care: washing linen (no bleach or enzyme products): support.fabrics-store.com
- GoCoop, grey-brown Mangalgiri handwoven cotton fabric (mild detergent, cold water, no bleach): gocoop.com
- The Week, From kala cotton to banana fibre (kala cotton revival): theweek.in